Hi again, or if you’re here for your first time, welcome! I just finished a new crochet top pattern 😱 I know, shocking 🤣
Well there are two things I’m always coming back to, and that’s handbags and crochet tops. I love making them, wearing them, using them, and designing them.
The good news is you all get a lot of different options for choosing a crochet top pattern to make.
This crochet top has been on my hook for WEEKS now. I just had a really hard time focusing on it. Between pattern “burn out” and sore hands, I wasn’t sure I’d finish it.
I wasn’t thrilled about the design, but all of a sudden it was like the clouds opened and everything fell into place! The top was finished, the video tutorial was recorded and I was in LOVE with the top. Funny how things work out.
I’m really loving this pom pom border I added too. If you’re not familiar with it, I did a quick pom pom border tutorial here. It’s a simple little accent that really makes the design. Love it.
I used Ice Yarns Summer #2 sport weight for this crochet top pattern, which as I’ve said before, I love. It almost feels like a #1 fingering weight (keep that in mind), remember to check your gauge!
If you’d like this pattern in an ad free PDF format, it’s available for purchase on all our shops below. Enjoy the pattern!
If you’re looking for more crochet top patterns, you might like these.
SCROLL DOWN FOR THE PATTERN
- I used Ice yarn Summer #2 sport weight yarn. It almost feels like a #1 fingering weight (keep that in mind), remember to check your gauge!
- Crochet hook size 2.5mm
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers
*These materials contain affiliate links, for which I make a small commission. It’s no extra cost to you, makes shopping easier and helps to keep the lights on.
Stitches Used & Code (US Term)
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- sc = single crochet
- st = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
- sk = skip
- sp = space
- YO = yarn over hook
- REP = repeat
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- ” = inches
- cl = cluster stitch : YO insert hook into the st, pull up a loop, YO pull through 2 loops on hook, YO insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, YO pull through 2 loops on hook, YO insert hook into same st, pull up a loop, YO pull through 2 loops on hook, ( 4 loops on hook ) YO pull through all loops on hook, ch 1.
- The pattern is written in English US terminology
- This pattern made as US women’s Sizes XS( S, M, L, XL, XXL )
- This pattern is made in 2 separate pieces and then sewn together (2 panels are made the same)
- This top is worked from the bottom up
- This pattern is in multiples of 3 ch
- This pattern is a 2 rows repeat (Row 2 and 3)
- In this picture I have demonstrated with size Small
Yarn needed: 950( 1000, 1070, 1120, 1190, 1240 ) Yards
Gauge blocked: 23 st X 11.5 rows = 4″
Measurements (After blocked)
- XS = 18.95″ Width across back X 16.69″ Length
- S = 21.04″ Width across back X 16.69″ Length
- M = 23.13″ Width across back X 17.39″ Length
- L = 25.21″ Width across back X 17.39″ Length
- XL = 27.30″ Width across back X 18.08″ Length
- XXL = 29.39″ Width across back X 18.08″ Length
CROCHET TOP PATTERN
Body Panel (Make 2)
Row 1 (RS): ch 111( 123, 135, 147, 159, 171 ), sk 2 ch, 1 dc into next ch and each ch across. Total of 109( 121, 133, 145, 157, 169 ) dc
Row 2 (WS): Turn, ch 2 (do not count as a st), 2 dc into first st, *sk 2 st, 3 dc into next st* REP from *TO* until you have 3 st left, sk 2 st, 2 dc into last st. Total of 109( 121, 133, 145, 157, 169 ) dc
Row 3: Turn, ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc into each st across. Total of 109( 121, 133, 145, 157, 169 ) dc
REP Row 2 and Row 3, 22( 22, 23, 23, 24, 24 ) more times. You’ll have a total of 47( 47, 49, 49, 51, 51 ) rows
*If you’d like a shorter or longer top, just repeat row 2 and row 3 less or more times.
Row 48( 48, 50, 50, 52, 52 ): Turn, ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc into each of next 34( 40, 45, 51, 56, 62 ) st, cut the yarn, sk 41( 41, 43, 43, 45, 45 ) st, add new yarn into next st then ch 2 (do not count as a st), 1 dc into the same st that you just added a new yarn, 1 dc into next st and each st across, cut the yarn and leave about 20-30″ long tail. Check picture below
JOINING THE PIECES TOGETHER
Sew the front and back panel together
Take the back and front panel, place them with the correct side facing down, then we’ll sew on the wrong side. Using the tail that we left earlier, sew along the top of the shoulder seam area together using method of choice ( Check picture below )
Sew The Sides Together
Fold your top in half at the shoulder seams with the right side facing each other, we’ll sew on the wrong side. Cut a new strand of yarn 30-40 inches long, enough to sew the side seams up to the arm pit. Sew 24( 23, 24, 23, 24, 23 ) rows of the front and back panels together at the side seam. Start sewing from the bottom up, using method of choice. *If you want smaller arm holes, just sew more rows. If you want bigger arm holes, just sew less rows. Check picture below
CROCHET AROUND THE SLEEVE EDGES
Note: We’re going to crochet into the end of the row of the sleeve edge (sp for reference)
With your top WS facing out, add new yarn into the arm pit corner, then ch 1, 1 sc into the same st that you just added a new yarn, *ch 6, 1 cl into the third ch from hook, ch 2, 1 cl into the top of the cl that we just did, fold the second cl that we just did to the front and then sl st into the same ch sp that we made the first cl, ch 3, sk next sp, 1 sc into next sp* REP from *TO* around, end with sl st into the first sc, cut the yarn and weave all the ends. Do the same on the other side. Check picture below
That’s it, you did it! Congrats on finishing your own crochet top.
I hope you enjoyed making it and I hope to see you back here again making more. The world needs more makers!